dog-mystic-academy1

PLEASE DO NOT BUY A DOG THAT IS LESS THEN 8 WEEKS OLD!

Hello everyone,  this is very important news that has been really bothering me lately and has been a very big problem this year especially while I have been training puppies.  Unfortunately, breeders are selling puppies way to young.  There is no reason why puppies should leave their mom and littermates less than 8 weeks old.  They learn so much from their mother and littermates.

Not only are they selling the puppies to young, they put them in a crate and on an airplane in cargo.  Their immune system is not strong.  This is causing major crate anxiety and plenty of fear from noises because it is so loud in cargo and unfortunately the people that get them out are probably not gentle getting the crates to where they need to be.  The puppies are filled with pee and feces.  

Here are your top 10 pet couriers in 2019 – and they’re all IPATA-approved =  Independent Pet and Animal Transportation Association .

Imagine being less than 2 months old and being totally traumatized like this.  It is not fair.  It is very difficult to fix crate anxiety and separation anxiety because they pee and defecate from the anxiety as soon as they are put in the crate.  Even if you switch to a playpen, which gives them more space, it has been causing major anxiety.  Granted, every dog is different, just like every person is different.  They can hurt themselves from trying to bite the cage or dig at the bottom.  

10 – 13 weeks is a perfect age to adopt a puppy.  I have trained plenty of puppies that are extremely fearful of noises and just the world around them.  They are shy and it is dangerous to walk them because they can slip out of their collars and go running in the street once they hear a loud truck, motorcycle, or garbage truck.  

Separation anxiety can lead to mass destruction and will only worsen with time.  The most important thing to start with is to choose a confinement for your dog.  It could be a crate, playpen, or certain small room in the house.  Do not see the confinement as a negative thing.  Dogs are like wolves and they see their den or confinement as their safe place.   Your dog will not have the opportunity to bite and destroy furniture. I have seen some horrible destruction of the home caused by one dog.

If you are a stay at home parent or you work from home, DO NOT have the dog with you at all times.  If you have the chance to leave the house for a little bit, even if it is for 15 minutes, please do, so your dog will get used to you leaving and coming home.  When you do leave and come home, do not make a big deal because it raises the dog’s anxiety.

A rescued dog with separation anxiety:

If you rescued a dog with separation anxiety, it will take some time and patience but the problem can be solved.  Please be patient!!!  First, put the crate in an area of the house where the dog can not see you leaving the house.  You might also want to get a plastic covered crate, so the dog does not hurt themselves trying to get out.  

You can set the dog up by putting the dog in the crate, put a deer antler or empty marrow bone with a little bit of peanut butter in the middle to try to get their attention focused on the bone instead of you leaving.  Every dog is different.  Go outside for 3 – 5 minutes then come back in and let him or her out of the crate.  DON’T say anything, just let the dog out, so they realize that they can be comfortable being in the crate.  Also, before you start getting ready to leave, put the dog in the crate, so they can not see you getting ready because that causes the anxiety as soon as you start your daily habit before leaving.  By the time you leave, their anxiety is very high.  That is why people think that the dogs are having an accident on purpose.  They can not hold it. It is like a person with a nervous stomach, who can not help but to throw up or they have to have a bowel movement.

Training will definitely help with separation anxiety:

Obedience training is so important for the peace in your household.  You gain the dominance of the dog and the dog gets more tired than just running around playing with toys because dog training takes mental stimulation.  The best part is that it does not take long on a daily basis.  Even if you work with the dog for 10 – 15 minutes before you leave, that will be perfect.  Take the dog out before you go and remember give them the bone in the crate and walk out without saying anything.

A tired dog is a happy dog!!!!!!

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The Leash Is Your Tool As Well As Being Firm But Loving!

When the dog does not have the leash on then they are in control. They have to much freedom and think that they can chew on whatever or go to the bathroom throughout the whole house. 

If the dog cannot be trusted in the house without having an accident or chewing on something you need to keep them on a watch or confine.

When the dog is on a watch, you keep the dog on the leash inside the house, so the dog cannot sneak off to have an accident or destroy something.  You can put a belt on and put the loop of a 6 ft. nylon leash or a 4 ft. chain link leash, if they are biters, through the belt, so your hands are free.

You can also wrap the leash around the leg of the couch and put clasp through the loop then attach it to the collar.

When you cannot watch the dog then put the dog in their confinement even if it is just for a short time for you to go to the bathroom because that is when they take advantage and get in trouble.

This may sound strange but if you have a large puppy that is extremely strong, clumsy, and doesn’t know their own strength then please keep the leash on them inside the house even if they’re housebroken.

If you open up the crate door and they literally knock you down because they’re so excited to get out and then they grab everything that they’re not supposed to, then they are just pushing their limits and getting away with way too much.

You can get really hurt if they are hyper and in their puppy Zoomies and banging to you knock you down and hurt your body.

Best thing to do is put the leash on before they get out of the crate.

safe toys for dogs

WHAT TOYS & BONES ARE SAFE FOR DOGS?

All The Toys That Are Great For Your Dog

When you get a new dog or puppy, there are so many toys to choose from.  Toys and bones are important to keep your dog occupied when you are not home or can not pay attention to them.  Think of certain toys as a pacifier for them.

Stuffed animals are not good to give to plenty of dogs because if they tear the stuffing out of the toys and swallow it, it can get wrapped up in their intestines then they can get bored with that and tear up pillows.  The pillows have the same stuffing in them as the stuffed animals. For teacups and toy dogs, the stuffed animals are probably ok because they can’t tear them apart.

Toys and bones that are safe and unsafe for dogs:

Any rubber toys are great.  A kong toy is wonderful because you put peanut butter on the far top of the toy, so they can smell it but they have to work to get it out.  For the big dogs you can get the black ones, so they do not tear it up so fast. It is supposed to be indestructible but some dogs can destroy them.  

For young puppies, start out with a kong toy because the antlers and marrow bone is to hard for their baby teeth! Antlers from deer or larger are Fabulous because they can bite on them and they do not break. 

Please do not get rawhides.  Even though they are sold everywhere, they are unsafe.  As the dog is chewing on the bone it gets soft and slimy and it doesn’t break off into pieces.  The sliminess can get stuck in the dog’s throat and they can choke.  

Flavored nylabones, bullysticks, pig ears, and pork rolls are great.  Also, marrow bones are safe and they will keep your dog busy for a long time.  They are found in your local supermarket in the refrigerator or freezer section.  Just ask the butcher and they will direct you.  

For large dogs, do not give them small bones because they can get stuck on the top of the mouth or they can swallow them whole and choke.  You can give it to the dogs raw in their crate or outside, so they get all the meat and marrow out, then they can bring it inside and it doesn’t make a mess.  

Dogs have digestive acids in their stomach that break the raw meat and bones with no problem.

Use the kong toy or marrow bones as special treats.  Only give it to your dog when you put them in the crate or certain confinement, so they know they are getting special treats when in the confinement.  Also, it keeps them occupied when you are leaving the house, it does not stress them out, and it helps with separation anxiety.

If your dog is spoiled and has so many toys to choose from, another good idea is to switch the toys around every other day, so if they have a favorite then they are not getting it everyday.  They will be more excited when they do get to play with the toy.

body language in dogs

How To Get Your Dogs Used To The Noises They Are Afraid Of

HOW TO GET YOUR DOGS USED TO THE NOISES THEY ARE AFRAID OF

There are so many sounds that we are used to hearing but dogs are petrified of.  Some common noises are fireworks, sirens, infants crying, children playing and screaming, tools, grooming tools, and thunderstorms.  It is hard for us to figure out exactly what made the dog become so afraid of certain noises but anything that happens to a dog in between 4 – 9 weeks of their lives are engrained into their heads and they remember everything.  

If a dog was left outside in a big thunderstorm then of course they are going to be afraid of thunder.  If a groomer was rushing through the job the first time the dog got cut and the clippers were turned on and they started cutting near the face, I know I would be afraid of the clippers.  There is a technique called sound desensitization that works wonders with dogs who are afraid of loud, startling, or uncommon noises.  

What I found that works is a desensitization CD from dogwise.com called Sound Socialization by O’Neal Hendrix, which has plenty of the sounds that I mentioned.  It takes plenty of consistency to play the cd on a daily basis, so please be patient.

HOW TO MAKE IT WORK FROM DAY ONE:

You begin by playing the CD on a low volume and gradually increase the volume each day until it is at a normal level.  

Make sure you do not put the volume up to quickly because the dog will relapse and you will need to start all over.

If there is only one sound on the CD that your dog is afraid of, you can repeat that sound continuously.

It should take about a month to get your dog accustomed to the sounds but don’t rush it.   

OF COURSE THERE IS YOUTUBE AND JUST PUT IT ON REPEAT, LOL!

If you know that your dog has an insane amount of anxiety during thunderstorms and you know that there is going to be bad storms before the month is over, train your dog for a longer period of time before you leave the house, so you know that the dog will be tired.

Cbd oil has been very helpful, or  you can ask your vet for some suggestions for severe cases on puppy zanex or a natural sedative to help your dog stay calm.  

Good luck!!! 

body language in dogs

HOW TO INTERPRET YOUR DOG’S BODY LANGUAGE, FACIAL EXPRESSIONS, AND VOCALIZATIONS

HOW TO INTERPRET YOUR DOG’S BODY LANGUAGE, FACIAL EXPRESSIONS AND VOCALIZATIONS

There are many different ways to tell how your dog is feeling and what they are communicating to you or another animal. Learning how to differentiate between each stance, expression, and sound will help you understand your dog so much better. Dogs can’t talk, so they communicate through body language, facial expressions, and vocalizations. Here are some examples of dispositions and examples of how the dog might react:

ALERT

Ears: Perked up. Turning like antennas to catch sound

Eyes: Open normally or wide

Mouth/teeth: Mouth closed or slightly open with teeth covered

Body: Normal. Possibly standing on tiptoe. Slightly dominant position

Tail: Up and possibly wagging

Vocalization: None, low whine, or a small bark that is somewhat continuous

AGGRESSION

Ears: Back and close to the head

Eyes: Narrow or staring thepe

Mouth/teeth: Lips open and drawn back to expose teeth bared in a snarl. Possible jaw snapping.

Body: Tense, upright in a complete dominant position. Hackles, which are the hairs that stand up on the back of the neck are up.

Tail: Straight out from the body and it is fluffed up.

Vocalization: Snarl, growl, and a load bark.

ANXIOUS

Ears: Partially back 

Eyes: Slightly narrowed

Mouth/teeth: Mouth closed or slightly open in a grin

Body: Tense and slightly lowered in a submissive position

Tail: Partially lowered

Vocalization: Low whine or moaning-type bark.

CHASE, BEGINNING STAGE

Ears: Perked up and forward pointing

Eyes: Wide opened and very alert

Mouth/teeth: Mouth is slightly opened with an excited panting

Body: Tense, crouched low in a predatory position. Legs bent and poised to run

Tail: Extended straight out from the body.

Vocalization: None

PREDATORY

Ears: Alert and held forward or backward to catch sounds.

Eyes: Wide open, staring and focusing.

Mouth/teeth: Mouth closed

Body: Rigid and low to the ground, ready to spring forward. They are quietly sniffing the air.

Tail: Straight and low.

Vocalization: None, so the prey won’t be alerted.

CURIOUS/EAGER/EXCITED

Ears: Perked up in a forward-pointing

Eyes: Wide open

Mouth/teeth: Mouth open, teeth covered with possible panting

Body: Normal stance with possible wiggling, standing on their back legs, or pacing

Tail: Up and wagging

Vocalization: Excited short barking and whining

DOMINANT

Ears: Up and straight or forward

Eyes: Wide open and staring

Mouth/teeth: Mouth closed or slightly open

Body: Very tall posture and the hackles may be up.

Tail: Stiffened and fluffed. Up or straight out from the body

Vocalization: Low assertive growl or grunt.


SUBORDINATE (SUBMISSIVE)/FEARFUL

Ears: Down and flattened against the head

Eyes: Narrowed to slits or wide open, whites showing.

Mouth/teeth: Lips pulled way back from teeth in a grin. Nuzzling or licking other animals or people on the face.

Body: Lowered to the ground with the front paw raised, lying on their back with their belly up, possibly piddling, which is urine leaking. 

Tail: Down and between the legs.

Vocalization: None or a low worried whining. Possible whining/yelping in fear.

PLAYFUL/FRIENDLY/HAPPY

Ears: Perked up, forward, or relaxed

Eyes: Wide open and alert with a sparkly/merry look

Mouth/teeth: relaxed, slightly opened with some excited panting

Body: Normal posture, relaxed, possibly their butt is wiggling, the front end of their body is lowered, rear end is up in the air in a play-bow. Excited bouncing and jumping up and down. Circling around and running forward in an invitation to play.

Tail: Wagging vigorously

Vocalization: Excited barking, soft play growling, yapping, or a short, high bark.

References by http://www.amazon.com/Teach-Your-Dog-Behave-Solutions/dp/B0027MPM8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1307220928&sr=8-1